Hooker Long Tubes with Mufflex 4" exhaust!

Mufflex Y-Pipe for their 4" exhaust and ceramic coated Hooker Long Tubes... aren't those Hookers pretty? :-)

Mufflex 4" exhaust coming outta the box. My bud's jaw dropped to the ground when he saw it and said it looked like a semi exhaust he once saw for an 18 wheeler :)

What's up with this? I ordered a 4" exhaust and the special y-pipe for the 4" exhaust. I've had this stuff in the garage for 2 years just sitting there and never pulled it out of the box far enough to see it was kinda screwed up. LOL!

More pics of Mufflex 4" and inside the Flowmaster 30 series muffler.

Both cars in the bays and ready for the work to begin! We're concentrating first on getting the stock manifolds and exhaust off Ryan's car.

A few last pics of my Borla before it is gone forever :) Also thought I'd snap some pics of the T-Rex. Don't know why, just did... film is cheap ;)

Working on getting the manifolds off Ryan's car.

Snapped a picture of the crappy Vortech flexible intake tube. This will very soon be replaced by the Brad Brand solid intake tube I have at home. If I would have remembered to bring it we would have stuck it on... oh well.

Here's a shot of the Borla and MAC y-pipe. There is a bit more clearance with this as compared to the Mufflex which is about to go on :)

These are the MACs coming out of my car.

I had to relocate my air pump due to the Vortech. Since the Hookers don't have air pump connections (no cat either. DOH!) I pulled the air pump out completely which was located here. Hmmm... nice big open space... wonder what I could stick here???

For any type of header install, it is necessary to remove the starter... or at least let it hang there :)

Another bud stops by and looks in amazement at my "bus exhaust".

This is my buddy, John... doing what he does best ;-)

Here you can see the differences between the two AIR fittings. Not sure WHY they are different but they are. My old AIR fitting is shown on the left (we already cut the tube out) and Ryan's AIR fitting is shown on the right. We ditched his air pump and pounded some plugs in the fittings which were on my car (functional when on my car). It was a Saturday and we couldn't find any place which had the proper sized plug so improvized :)

Now back to working on my Mufflex exhaust. Remember my 4" exhaust pipe before which had the 3" reducer? What's up with that? Why buy a 4" exhaust for a 3" y-pipe? :) Hackin' that sucker off!

Ok... now we're getting somewhere. Long tubes are in and y-pipe in place. Note: Both Hooker long tube headers went in from the bottom and engine jacking was NOT required. Some will say you have to do this but we didn't and they slipped right in within just a minute or two on each side.

I didn't buy O2 extenders so just extended my own. I'm switching over to a Speed Pro system with a wide band O2 sensor this summer so just did a quick and dirty extension with crimps on the O2 sensor wiring. Works just fine. I inserted 6" wires for one side and a 13" wires for the other.

Here are some pics of it installed. The band clamps worked better than we expected.

We had to make an EGR block off plate. Made it out of 1/8" (or maybe 1/4"?) aluminum. He made the damn thing too fast and had it installed too fast or I would have got a picture of it. Anyway, here is the hunk of metal it came from just to give you an idea. LOL!

And finally, because I wanted the O2 bungs in the headers and my y-pipe also came with O2 bungs, I had to do something. I didn't buy a plug but needed something so just ran up to Wal-Mart and bought two spark plugs for $1.89. The plugs for older style 350s work great and screw right in ;-)

That's it... sorry not a real "guide" but we wanted to finish both exhaust systems in a day so didn't really have time to write down all the wrench sizes and stuff. Hopefully, though, the pics will help or at least give you an idea. If you have any questions, feel free to email me!