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I saw this picture about 3 years ago...

and ever since I have wanted a set of those darn headlights! :-)  What had stopped me was the crazy price of this kit.  It is made by Rytek and the cost is near $600 for the entire kit... a bit steep for my blood considering they are just headlights!   Never-the-less, I still wanted them.  After a couple years I could no longer take it and decided to order them.  I ran into a slight problem... Rytek no longer makes this kit! Darn!  But, with a little digging around I was able to find out that the lights used in the Rytek kit are PIAA lights.  I was on to something here :)   However, I ran into another snag because after a conversation with PIAA I was told the lights Rytek used were no longer being made BUT PIAA now produced a similar light which used the same housing only painted silver instead of black.  Also, the lights in the Rytek kit were standard halogen type lights.  The new PIAA lights which are available are the new hyperwhite lights that put out the bluish, very white light.  They look similar to what are on some of the more expensive luxury cars.  So basically, I was able to buy the PIAA lights in the hyperwhite style which I like better anyway!

1. The PIAA lights are the 1000 series lights... the 1000x Platinum Series.  There are different styles in the 1000 series (hyper, amber) and the correct part/model number for the lights used on this page is 1092 hyperwhite lights.  The lights used in the Rytek kit are the 1082 halogen lights.

2.  If you don't like the hyperwhite style bulb but love this design, all hope is not lost... it's just going to cost you a little more money. :)  PIAA still sells the halogen bulbs that go into the Rytek 1082 lights.  These bulbs can replace the hyperwhite bulbs in the 1092 lights.  The part number for these bulbs is 13385 and they list for $29 each.

3. The original Rytek kit cost about $600.  I'm not sure how much the 1082 lights sold for but the 1092 hyperwhite lights retail for around $275 per pair!  This would make this project cost a little over $550!  I purchased these lights when CarParts.com was running a 33% off discount.  I'm sad to say this discount has now expired AFAIK.  But, they do have a free shipping discount which can be applied by going to the CarParts.com site using the link below.

CarParts has so much stuff I've found the best way to find something is to click on the "Brands" option in the menu to the left.  Then find PIAA (or whatever) and click on the manufacturer to find all parts for all cars.

Click here for Free Shipping on any order!

Currently, CarParts doesn't list the 1092 lights??? But, I do believe they are still available and they may only be temporarily out of them.

Click the above image for a larger picture... same with others on this page.

Here are a couple before and after pics before we get started!

For the install, I'll actually show you two different ways to do it.  The first way is the way that I did it.  The second way is the way another www.camaroz28.com board member who goes by the name Wraith did this install.  At first I was going to do this the way Wraith did but I was afraid it wouldn't look very good with a bracket sticking out (you'll see later).  But, as it turns out, his install looks very good!  So, I probably could have gotten by with a lot less work just by doing it the way I had originally planned... oh well :)  Either way works and I'll describe both so you can have your choice!

Install Method #1

You are also going to need some black electrical tape, nice high quality black screws, T15 Torx driver for the headlight screws, needle nose pliers to remove a spring, blue Scot Lok type quick splice connectors and pliers for crimps, small diameter PVC pipe, a hacksaw to cut the pipe, a small drill bit and of course, a drill.

In the picture to the left, you'll see how I've cut about 8 inches off the end of the wire set going to each PIAA light connector.  This is all you'll be using.  Strip the ends back as I have and put the rest aside.

Remove the stock headlights.  First remove the frame using the Torx T15 driver.  You can then pull out the headlight and disconnect it.  I wouldn't throw it away though as these are no ordinary headlights at $25 a pop! :-)  This might be about the only headlight you'll ever be able to sell USED to somebody!

Although not pictured here, also remove the back portion of the headlight holder.  This comes out by removing the spring and the adjustment screws.  I also removed the white plastic clip which the adjustment screw screws into as this piece is no longer needed and detracts from the looks.

Now make your splice into the stock wiring with the PIAA connector plug that you cut off the PIAA wire setup earlier.  Because I wasn't sure how well these lights would go over with the local law enforcement and I wanted the ability to switch back to stock easily, I decided to NOT cut off the stock plug and instead splice into as show above.  The WHITE positive wire for the PIAA lights connects into the stock YELLOW wire.   The BLACK ground for the PIAA lights connects into the stock BROWN wire.  Once complete, tape this connection up good with electrical tape.

The bottom picture is the actual pieces laying on the cutting board I did not need to use (and paint!).   The notches are needed to "mold" to the current configuration of the headlight opening.  You'll see what I mean once you start looking closer at it.

I cut these pieces out of the clipboard using a hand held jig saw and a metal blade because it had very fine teeth.  Also, when you do the cutting, draw your template on the bottom of piece you are making.  This will ensure your jig saw doesn't scratch the side that shows.

UPDATE:  This may sound crazy, but my buddy, John, turned me onto an everyday product called Shoe Goo.   This stuff can be bought at Wal-Mart in the shoe department.  It is an EXCELLENT adhesive and very unique in the way it works.  It is super strong (stronger than epoxy in some cases) but will give way when a shearing force is applied.  That stuff will more than hold the Plexiglas in place and would even hold the PIAA lights to the Plexiglas.  You might think this sounds crazy but I'd be willing to bet money that this stuff would work great in this application if used properly!

Overall, this was a fun project!  The most time consuming part was making the mounting plates from the Plexiglas.  This took me a couple hours to get them exactly the way I wanted them.  With the scan I did above, it shouldn't take you anywhere near that long!

These lights drastically change the way the car looks.  I've received a lot of positive comments!  Not only do they look pretty darn cool, but it does seem as though they work better and do light the road up more at night!  The only "bad" comment I've had is that you can see too much area behind the lights.  This is because the lights are not as wide as the stockers.  I may fix this later by putting up another piece of clipboard behind them or something like that :)

These are obviously a little brighter and don't have as concentrated a beam as a standard headlight because I, on occasion, get flashed from oncoming drivers.  This isn't excessive (only has happened a few times) and it may be just because the light is so white it bothers some people.  I know that the factory high dollar headlights that have the bluish look do seem to be to be a little brighter than stock halogen lights.  Either way, I haven't had any problems with them and have met several police officers... never been pulled over :)  Just be aware that these are obviously not DOT approved headlights.  However, around here, the cops use "common sense" believe it or not, and don't mess with people who have adequate lighting.  If they were way too bright or didn't light up the road enough I'm sure I'd be stopped and questioned.  Just want you to be aware that this probably isn't legal in your area by the strict letter of the law :)

Here are several pictures to help you decide if you like them or not :-)

Installing these PIAAs was only the first step of modifying my lights :)  With round headlights, I also felt round fogs would really balance the look!  DG Motorsports puts out an excellent product which uses 4 CATZ XSL round lights.  I bought one of these setups with hyperwhite lights to complete my lighting modifications.  I'll make a separate page for DGM quad fogs install but in the meantime, here are a few pictures of what my car looks like now.

And here are some pics of what these PIAA round type headlights look like on other cars.  If you do this mod to your car and want it pictured here send it to me and I'll add it!

For another headlight alternative for those who don't much care for the "round" look, check out these Hella FF75 driving lights being used as headlights.  Again, these too provide better lighting than the stock headlights.

If you have any question or comments, send me an email!

bfranker@tampabay.rr.com

Install Method #2

Here are the install directions as done by Wraith.  If you have any questions about the follow, please send him an email to wraith_lt1@yahoo.com  His pictures follow this write-up!

Here is what you are going to need.

1. Piaa lights and harnesses.
2. Wire strippers/crimpers
3. Electrical tape
4. pliers
5. Drill with a ¼" or 3/8" bit (not exactly sure, same as hole in Piaa bracket)
6. "star" wrench, to remove stock lights and assemblies. If you don’t have these, get a set for $7 or so from checker. Look at the bolts for the adjustment so you are familiar with what you are looking for. Also need these for sidemarker and rear brake light, so you may have use for them in the future anyway.
7. 8 line tap connectors. They splice around the wire and form a T to the line. The male slide connector will go on these. So you don’t have to solder or slice and dice your factory wiring.
8. 2 wood Joyce connectors (metal). You can find these from the hardware store. They are about 4" x 7". They are smooth with lots of holes in them. Not the ones that have ridges that stick in the wood. They go for about .50 apiece.
9. Tin snips. So you can trim the before mentioned to support your lights.
10. A C- clamp or vice grips. Vice grips look like pliers but "lock" together when fully closed. They have an adjustment on the end. The C-clamp needs to be about 5", from the screw to the back. Or something else that works in this fashion.
11. 8 10-24 size bolts, 3/4" long. Whatever size the hole for the mounting bracket is. Get the ones with Philips or straight screw heads, so you don’t have something those snags or clearance problems.
12. 16 flat washers, appropriate size, and 8 lock washers of same size. Nuts should come with the 10-24’s, get the ones that do

* You may want to paint the Joyce connectors before you start. I need to take mine off and paint them. I also recommend starting with the high beams first in case you have trouble, then you can e-mail me with any questions. Not to mention you can drive somewhere if you need more parts or something comes up. The first is the hardest!

Steps.

1. First, find a flat driveway with a garage preferably. You need to aim your lights. A wall or some other structure will do, but you must be able to bring the car nose within 2 or so feet from this object. Make reference lines to where your wheels are in case you need to move the vehicle before completing the project.
2. Turn on your low lights and mark with electrical tape the center of the light on the wall (door, etc.). That is why it is important to bring the nose so close so you get a good pattern of light, resembling the rectangle shape of the lens. Mark the top and bottom as well. Then do the same for the highs.
3. Then use the "star" wrench and remove the bracket supporting the light. If you turn the vertical screw so the boot is tilted upward it is easier to get the bottom screw. Then remove the top screw. Then you should be able to pull out the frame and the light will be free.
4. Unplug the light, flat head screwdriver makes it easier. Make sure you mark the lows or high so you can have reference for possible reinstallation in the future.
5. Then you can remove the assembly by unscrewing the vertical screw completely. When taken completely out then you can unhook the little spring at the bottom and remove it entirely. Make sure not to loose the little screws or the spring.
6. Now you can take your line taps and put them on. Just place one on each wire a couple inches behind the connector for the factory light. Use pliers to close it so you make a good connection
7. Take a Piaa light harness and cut about 8 inches behind the plug going to the light.

Once this is complete strip the amount of insulation recommended in the instructions. Then crimp on a male slide connector came with line kit, to each wire from the Piaa harness. Pull moderately to make sure it doesn’t move and you have a solid crimp. Not to hard so you don’t crush through the plastic boot.

8. Plug the black wire to the black, and the white (Piaa) to the green (factory). Should be a very snug fit. Then plug in Piaa light and check to make sure it is operational. If not check your crimps. Unplug the Piaa, and then tape the end of the factory plug. Don’t forget to wrap the t-connections also.
9. If you look at the plastic trim running above the old mounting assembly, you will see a plastic piece that runs from the back to the front. This edge will be your guide for you’re mounting bracket. It is off center from where the light center was. Running your hand under the trim piece, you can find this easy.
10. Take the factory-mounting bracket (Piaa), and mount the light to it, like in the instructions. Make sure it is close to how it will be on the car, and tighten it good. This is important because you can see the gap that occurs between the halves. Makes a difference when drilling later. Now take a Joyce connector and trim it to the mounting area of the bracket. No wider, you need the straight edge of the bracket to line up your light later. Now trim another the same way. You should get two out of each Joyce.
11. Take one piece of trim and run a line over where the hole for the mounting bracket is.
12. Take the light with bracket and the trim piece, tape it to the bracket, and place under the car trim piece. Line it up, bracket, against the plastic that I said would be your guide. Feel to see that it is pushed all the way back and flush with it on the side.
13. Now you need the vice grips or c-clamp to hold it in place. Step back and look to see if it looks right. It should if you have the mounting bracket flush with the plastic guide piece. When this is done, take the trim piece with the lines and lay it directly on top of the plastic trim so it matches the bracket under it. Mark reference lines so you can get the left to right part correct for drilling the holes.
14. Now you can drill. Feel underneath so you can see how far back on the trim piece you can drill, When drilling, be cautions not to hit the light once you begin pushing through the metal. After drilling, put the bolts in and check for interference between light housing and the bolt.
15. Now you can remove the light and take the tape of the trim. The take your wiring harness and plug it into the light. You want to tape this too, because you can see a small gap where moisture may get in. Now reinstall your light.
16. Put a flat washer between the bolt and trim, and another after the mounting bracket. Followed by a lock washer and a nut. You don’t need a washer in between the trim and mounting bracket that’s what the trim also does.
17. Tighten your bolts down good, not over doing it, and check you light once again. Make sure the light is pushed back as far as possible. With it on, you can now align it. Make sure your car is lined up if you had to move it since your marked your stock light position. Reason for lining up the reference points in the beginning. Aim the center of the Piaa light about ½" below the center of your stock position. You will see why when you use them at night the first time
18. Now you can repeat the process for the remaining lights. Good luck.

I hope you enjoyed the page and if you have any questions at all, just send me an email!